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Picking up stuff long the way

Look what we found…

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Ok, so we had to return it.

But, more importantly we got to catch up and stay with an old friend, Mishca while in Prague.

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Bones and Bunnies

Tris decided to have a wee snooze this afternoon, much like an old man would. I chose to man-up and do something more cultural and go see something that sounded interesting; the Church of Bones.

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My ride out there was amazing, probably the best ride of the trip. And when I got there a bus full of playboy Bunnies had just arrived. Honest, I’ve even got a photo.

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At least that is what I told sleeping Pretty.

The ride was actually boring, hot but luckily not that long. Thankfully the Ossuary was not crowded with tourists so I could easily wander around and look at my leisure. And it was bizarre.

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Some half blind nutter priest started the idea of decorating the church with the remains of those buried in an over crowded cemetery. He, along with others of course, made practically every decoration out of bones; from a large candelabra, a coat of arms, writing on the wall, to huge vase like things at the entrance. I checked around but couldn’t find a bone lava lamp, which was a little bit disappointing.

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It was a morbid experience but still fascinating. It is rather strange to think that these stunning artistic creations were once living and breathing people. I can’t help but be intrigued as I analysed their remains.

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Our mad dash through Albania

Due to documentation issues, we decided not to stay in Albania longer than we should. We spent a night in a tiny village, Vau Dejes, near the northern border, staying with a amazing young man called Corey Rice. He had been there 4 months out of a 2 year stint as a Peace Corps volunteer, but had integrated himself into the community amazingly (“Your bikes won’t get stolen because you are staying with me”). He showed us around the area he lived in, being driven everywhere by his local taxi driver friend, and explained to us the politics of the land, the life of the local people, and showed us the contrast between the rich and poor. It was an eye opening experience and definitely a highlight for both of us. We got to appreciate Albania as a beautiful country, but were also saddened by the treatment of people and animals. One particularly upsetting sight was when we were taken to a local restaurant that had a wolf and three bears locked up in tiny cages for their guests to enjoy. It was depressing and heart wrenching to see them caged in such a way.

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In the morning we packed up our gear and were on the road by 9 as we had a long way to go. Our Sat Navs said our trip was going to take about 6 hours, but that wasn’t too daunting.

The first leg of the journey took us into the capital, Terina, so we could try get some fuel using a credit card rather than having to get cash out. We stopped at several petrol stations that clearly displayed Visa signs, yet each time were told they only took cash. We gave in and got cash. After refueling we decided to head to the coast as our Sat Navs said it was only another 4.5 hours to the border that way. I’m never trusting a Sat Nav again (well, I will but not in Albania).

The term “road” in Albania should be taken quite loosely. There were times when it suddenly stopped and turned into a gravel path, or was so full of potholes it could just have well have been an off-road experience. But, it was a challenge and quite fun for that reason, forcing us to keep very attentive on where we were going. We saw some fascinating sights on the way, including a cow being freshly slaughtered (it was still kicking), some amazing coastal roads and captivating views. But, they just wouldn’t end.

(view along the southern Albania coast)

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Albania is a bit of a black hole for our Sat Nav it seems. No wonder it said it would only take 4ish hours, as it basically drew straight lines along the coast, where the road actually hugged every tight corner. Our 4 hours extended into 9 hours. As we got very close to the border the road diverged and we got a bit stumped trying to interpret from the Sat Nav which road to take as it didn’t follow either (straight lines again). As luck would have it, a car pulled up and out jumped a nice chap who offered to show us how to get to the border by having us follow him. Turns out he lived in Clapham Common.

So we followed him, sometimes driving a little bit faster than we would have considering it was now pitch black – oh, except for the light produced by the forest fire that was on our left, burning the hillside by the road – and the roads were very windy. Eventually we got to the border – “Motorsickle documents and green card.” Sorry buddy, but we are out of here. Hello Greece!

After being on the road for 12+ hours, we ended up getting a room in a cheap hotel in Ionnina, Greece. The hotel owner was having a wee party as it turns out, so despite being road weary, we joined in with them, guzzling down much needed beer and pizza.

Local talent

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Tris is not very impressed with the local talent here in Kavala, Greece.

The day I dropped Donkey

View across Vilac

I’m not the dumbest guy in the world but I certainly felt like it when Tris and I decided to go visit the local historic castle in Villac, Austria.

The road up there was incredibly steep, so being the lazy arses we are, we road up on our bikes. To be even mre lazy, we skipped all the sensible flat parking bays further from the castle, and road straight to the parking directly at the entrance. The problem we faced was the angle of the road and parking bays was quite steep.

Tris made a first attempt to park and almost took out an old lady. While he corrected himself, I managed to successfully face up hill and then reverse my bike into the parking bay. I was quite chuffed with myself… I made it look easy.

The problem I next faced was getting my bike on my stand. The stand was on the uphill side and when I extended it my bike was completely upright. I decided to test if it was balanced by taking my right foot off the ground.

I started to fall down hill to the right.

No worries, I thought, I’ll just put my foot down again. But by now it was too late. The weight of my fully laden bike was too much and my foot was slipping. For several seconds I managed to stop Donkey from slamming into the ground but she kept on falling further over, and I couldn’t hold the weight on my one precariously placed foot. Eventually I just had to let go and she hit the ground while I went flying into the red car next to me.

Dumb arse.

My time at the gym wasn’t enough. I struggled to get Donkey even a few inches up off the ground, and still faced the issues of some simple maths; angles, weight, and me.

A man who sensibly parked further down the hill passed and immediately jumped to help. Tris, after sensibly parking at the flatter bit further up, eventually came back down and put his shoulder into it as well. After a short while all three of us managed to get Donkey upright and held her there long enough for me to get back on her and started (she flooded).

I parked further up, and we settled down to enjoy the amazing view at the café inside the castle walls, ordering a well earned coca-cola to settle the nerves.

The air up there

It’s  hard life sometimes…

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Let there be beer… and plenty of it

Villach friends at the Beer Festival

Villach friends at the Beer Festival

Part of the fun of this trip is the fact we don’t really have a definite plan of where we are going. We have a rough idea, with a need for me to be in Paris on the 26th of August, but where we stay each night is partly up to random chance.

By random chance we ended up in Villach in Austria. We had intended on making it to Lubijubijubi (I can never remember how to say or spell that place) in Slovenia, but a local festival was making it hard to find a place to stay. By midday we had decided to go elsewhere, and sent out some couchsurfing requests to places this side of the Austrian/Slovenian border. Within an hour we had a friendly “Yes” from a lovely woman called Nikki. Just by chance, Villach was also having a local festival… a beer festival. The gods be praised!

Nikki invited us to join her and some friends for some pre-festival drink, and then out to the festival with them. The festival was manic. There were thousands of people filling the streets, most dressed in traditional costume. We picked a beer tent that had a huge pig on a spit roasting outside it (it was awesome… hmmm, meat), opposite another tent playing some traditional Austrian music (which sounded like it was out of the 60s). We all got into the swing of things though by drinking beer an eating pork. Nom nom nom.

MEAT!

MEAT!

The festival was huge though. It took us forever to walk all the way through the streets jam-packed full of (drunken) people. They had fair-ground rides, and not just the small piddly ones either. I lost Tristan at one stage but found a bar selling more beer (like it was hard to find), where I waited with a young couple who I’d met earlier that night, talking about random drunken crap and giving them my sagely advice. Eventually Tris turned up with a grin on his face, and we all then found a taxi back to where we were staying. It was close to 4pm by the time we got to sleep.

Whimper

I couldn’t wait to get off the bike after our second day of riding. We travelled over 500kms on long boring motorways. Our aim is to get as far East as quickly as possible, but with 25k to go before our destination of the day, Besacon, I just wanted to get off the bike. In fact when we stopped, I got my helmet off as quickly as possible and threw my jacket on the ground. We had both had enough, especially after fairly much no sleep the night before.

Our plan for an early night went out the window when we took our host our for a meal, and then she suggested a walk up to the citadel. The view was great but the walk back to her house was draining. We didn’t get to bed until 1AM, which wasn’t good considering we had to get up at 6:30AM. Whimper.

The next day was a mad dash to Chur in Switzerland (nothing exciting happened), and then bout 580kms from there to where we are now; Villach in Austria.

And we are off…

Well, we were sort of off. The torrential rain in the morning wasn’t an encouraging start to our trip but by the time we actually hit the road it had cleared up.

I had promised myself I wouldn’t take as much gear with me this time. As I hefted my chokka full bag onto the back of my bike, forced closed my full top box and wiggled the jam packed tank bag into place, I wish I had remembered that promise. Dick.

We only had a short ride down to Folkestone then a few hours on the other side to a place called Amien for our first day. I remembered riding being exhilirating, and it definitely was that and more. The “more” bit was remembering how squashed one’s balls get, how sore one’s arse gets and how tiring it can all be. But we made it fine and were greeted by the friendly face of Anna our first Couchsurfing host. She set the standards pretty high as she plied us with beer and put on a BBQ. We hung out with her, her boyfriend and housemates for the night, with our incredibly poor ability to speak French not being much of a hinderance. Tris tries to speak the local lingo better than I do and has been a inspiration.

The highlight of day one was Tris learning how to remove a bottle cap from beer bottle using a lighter. I’m glad I was there to witness him finally becoming a real man.

The train ride over